Alright, so things are quite a bit different around here when the sun is out. I didn't sleep too bad with all my layers, but I did think about using the wooden table and chairs in my room as firewood a couople times throughout the night. I'm a survivor though, and I'll think I'll stick around here for awhile.
I'm not sure if I've already mentioned this, and I know I may have said it about Oaxaca City, but San Cristobal is very much like Antigua, Guatemala. It's set up in the mountains, which makes for some amazing miradors (but also accounts for the freezing cold and shortness of breath while hiking). The streets are all cobblestone with super narrow sidewalks (great when the cars are speeding around corners paying no attention to pedestrians). The city is filled with beautiful architecture, culture, museums, etc. But what is most interesting is the large population of indigenous people. There are loads of markets where the artesanias are sold for real cheap. There's tons that I'd like to buy, but I just don't want to carry it for the next 5 months.
The Maya and other indigenous cultures all have distinct clothing that they wear. It is all done by hand and is incredibly intricate. Of course the garments they wear up here all look really warm, and I think they must be made of really heavy wool. I see a lot of ponchos, and I almost want to buy one along with a toque, but the girl staying at my apartment says that where I'm going soon it's 40c most days (Merida).
This morning I walked around and got myself pretty well orientated (although somehow I was lost on the way home this evening. I hiked up a long and weaving staircase to a cathedral with a nice view of the town (this time unguided by the police, I guess it's pretty safe around here). Then, after grabbing a fantastic coffee (which Chiapas is known for) and a spinach and potato empanada from the bakery, I hopped a colectivo destined for San Juan Chamula. En route, I met 2 italian guys and a german girl going to Huitepec, which is a sort of cloud forest type thing about halfway to my orignal destination. I got out and did the one and a half hour hike with them, which was nothing too spectacular but the air was so nice and fresh and unpolluted.
Afterwards, I walked out onto the highway to catch another minibus to my original destination. I tried to flag a few done, but a bunch drove past me. Finally one stopped and basically was trying to warn me that there were no other tourists in the van, plus it was pretty well full. No bug deal, I just squeezed myself into the very bag, which is meant for luggage, and share the leg space with an elderly indigenous man in a cowboy hat. The 45 min or so ride costs only 9 pesos.
Chamula is an indigenous village which is most visited for it's cathedral. I need to read more about it because I don't entirely understand what was going on inside. I think that what's happened is probably a mixture between ancient indigenous beliefs and the Catholic religion. After paying the entrance fee or 20pesos, I entered the cathedral. Inside there was the smell almost like burning pine needles and a there was a smoky haze in the air. There were no pews or altars per say, but these cases lining both side walls and at the back. Inside the wood and glass cases were statues of various saints, many of which had mirrors hung around their necks (I'm not sure why). The worshippers were all indigenous, their garments making the whole scene so much more intriguing. All over the ground were sprigs of greenery, almost like from a pine tree.
There were people kneeling down and lighting all sorts of kinds of candles, in glass holders but also tall candles directly melted to the ground. Many of the worshippers were chanting and bowing, standing, kneeling, etc. It was really a beautiful sight. Kind of unfortunate was that it's prohibited to take photos inside the cathedral and also of the indigenous people in the village in general. Obviously this needs to be respected.
After arriving back in the city, I took myself to this cafe in the centro where they have a makeshift cinema and play 3 movies per day. I caught "The Sweet Hereafter", after which I got lost walking home. It's a damn good thing my spanish is adequate to take directions.
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1 comment:
I'm enjoying following your adventures! Merida next.....you're getting close to Isla. We arrive in 9 days ;) Shirley
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